Unveiling Midwest Architectural Marvels

Buildings have fascinated me since childhood, sparked by countless hours constructing worlds with wooden building blocks in a remote corner of India. Credit is due to my late parents for getting me those blocks, and for introducing me to awe-inspiring sites like the Ahom monuments in Sivasagar, Assam, and Hampi ruins in Karnataka. These early experiences ignited a lifelong passion for understanding and appreciating the built environment. While my career took a different path than my childhood dream of becoming an architect, I have found deep fulfillment in where life has led me.

But enough about me; let's unveil some of the Midwest's architectural marvels. In this Pxley story, I've put together an itinerary that spans Illinois, Indiana, Missouri, and Wisconsin. We will start and end in Chicago, Illinois, but the itinerary doesn't include exploring architectural gems in the city. Additionally, this itinerary can be tailored to begin or end at a location convenient for you or based on how much you wish to see. Alternatively, you may choose to visit the different locations on separate weekends. The choice is yours. These destinations are personal favorites of mine, making this itinerary a special journey through the heart of the Midwest.

Day 1: Milwaukee, Wisconsin

• Departure: Chicago, Illinois

• Destination: Milwaukee, Wisconsin

• Travel Time: Approximately 1.5-2 hours

• Overnight: Head to Madison, Wisconsin, and overnight

• Travel Time: Approximately 1.5 hours

Located on the shore of Lake Michigan in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, the Quadracci Pavilion seamlessly integrates craftsmanship and technology into its transformative design. As a post-modern structure, it resonates with the essence of Lake Michigan, echoing its waves, sailboats, and changing weather. Architectural vision and engineering prowess converge in the pavilion, highlighting its geometry, dynamic motion, and evolving form. Windhover Hall extends gracefully towards the harbor, its expansive windows and soaring 90-foot ceiling creating a sensation of floating over the water. According to the Milwaukee Art Museum, Santiago Calatrava envisioned Windhover Hall as a modern interpretation of a Gothic Cathedral, featuring flying buttresses, pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and a central nave crowned by a towering glass roof. Calatrava chose white as the predominant color for the Quadracci Pavilion, employing repeating lines and organic, curving structures that bridge the realms of art and architecture. The iconic Brise Soleil, with its 36 interconnected fins spanning 217 feet and weighing 90 tons, functions like the wings of a great bird, opening and closing in response to wind speeds exceeding 23 mph. The pavilion's reinforced concrete structural system efficiently distributes loads to the foundation wall and central beam, its white coating ensuring durability against varied environmental conditions. Connecting Milwaukee’s waterfront to downtown, the Reiman Pedestrian Bridge spans 230 feet across a major thoroughfare, offering an ideal vantage point for observing the Brise Soleil's dynamic movements. Whether seen as the wings of a bird or the sails of a boat, the perspective of the Burke Brise Soleil adds a dynamic dimension to the pavilion's architectural narrative.

Day 2: Spring Green, Wisconsin

• Departure: Madison, Wisconsin

• Destination: (Taliesen) Spring Green, Wisconsin

• Travel Time: Approximately 1.5 hours, one way

• Overnight: Return to Madison, and overnight

Taliesin, situated in Spring Green, Wisconsin, encompasses Frank Lloyd Wright's residence, Hillside Home School, Midway Barns, and Tan-y-Deri, providing visitors with a comprehensive view of his architectural legacy. Set amidst stunning vistas, the estate showcases five distinct buildings designed by Wright, emphasizing the seamless integration of nature and architecture. Hillside Home School, completed in 1902 as Wright's first commission, was originally established in 1887 by his aunts for educational purposes. The iconic Romeo and Juliet windmill features a distinctive design with a diamond-shaped Romeo section and an octagonal Juliet section engineered to withstand strong winds. Tan-y-Deri, a home Wright built for his sister and her husband, exemplifies his personalized approach to architectural design. The Midway Barns, which house the horse stable and poultry barn, include a milk tower for storage, reflecting Wright's holistic approach to functional and aesthetic integration. Taliesin itself, Wright's living space, embodies his meticulous design ethos, with furniture crafted to complement natural light through strategically placed windows. The drafting studio and living quarters at Taliesin are positioned to optimize natural light and scenic views, embodying Wright's philosophy of organic architecture seamlessly blending with its environment. Wright's deliberate omission of gutters on Taliesin and his use of yellow limestone laid in wedges highlight his attention to detail and commitment to organic architectural principles.

Day 3: Plano, Illinois

• Departure: Madison, Wisconsin

• Destination: Plano, Illinois

• Travel Time: Approximately 4.5 hours

• Overnight: Head to Springfield, Illinois and overnight

• Travel Time: Approximately 3 hours

Ludwig Mies van der Rohe embodied simplicity, balance, and elegance in his design of the Edith Farnsworth House, situated along the Fox River south of Plano, Illinois. This iconic structure, a single room of steel and glass, stands as a brilliant architectural expression. Its open design effortlessly integrates with the surroundings, featuring two slabs as roof and floor, and a third as a terrace linking indoors and outdoors, all adorned with exposed white-painted steel. Within its 2,400 square feet, three distinct spatial interfaces were meticulously crafted to include a living, dining, and cooking areas, with bathrooms and mechanical spaces discreetly centralized. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls enhance continuity between inside and outside, framed by large maple trees that provide varying perspectives from the river-facing entrance. Mies van der Rohe's design philosophy aims to harmonize nature, architecture, and humanity, captured in his timeless quote: "Nature, too, shall live its own life. We must beware not to disrupt it with the color of our houses and interior fittings. Yet we should attempt to bring nature, houses, and human beings together into a higher unity."

Day 4: Springfield, Illinois

• Visit: Dana Thomas House and Glenarm (optional) 

• Overnight: Springfield, Illinois

Having a Frank Lloyd Wright-designed house in Springfield is truly a treasure. Built between 1902 and 1904 for socialite Susan Lawrence Dana, the Dana Thomas House is a sprawling 12,000-square-foot Prairie-style mansion, built with a sense of intimacy and coherence. One of the most striking features is its horizontal emphasis, blending seamlessly with the landscape through low-pitched roofs, overhanging eaves, and long rows of art glass windows that flood the interior with natural light. Additionally, the carefully laid brick layers in the walls accentuate the visual width of the house. Inside, every detail reflects Wright's commitment to organic architecture. Guided tours navigate through the various rooms, each uniquely designed to serve specific functions yet interconnected to create a sense of flow and openness. I'd love to share more about the house, but I'd rather leave a few surprises for you to discover, including subtle nods to Japanese aesthetics that enrich its design.

Optional visit while in Springfield, Illinois: Glenarm, Illinois

Located just south of Springfield, Illinois, off Interstate 55 and along historic Route 66, the Covered Bridge at Sugar Creek in Glenarm is a notable landmark. Constructed in 1827 by Thomas Black, a wooden trussed bridge served as a vital crossing for early settlers in Sangamon County. The bridge features a Burr Arch Truss design with distinctive "X" diagonal panels, ensuring structural stability over its 60-foot span. Sugar Creek, a tributary of the Sangamon River, flows nearby, adding to the scenic beauty and historical significance of this unique landmark.

Note: If you plan to explore Springfield during your visit, you might enjoy reading "My Ode to Springfield, Illinois." It captures the essence of this city through my eyes.

Optional visit [next day] en route to Collinsville, Illinois: Carlinville, Illinois

Located 95 miles south of Glenarm, Carlinville, Illinois' historic courthouse stands proudly at the heart of the town square, showcasing impressive neoclassical design and serving as a symbol of civic pride. The town also has a collection of over 150 Sears Catalog homes, offering a glimpse into early 20th-century American architecture and innovative housing solutions. Many of these homes retain their historical charm.

Day 5: Collinsville, Illinois

• Departure: Springfield, Illinois

• Destination: Collinsville, Illinois

• Travel Time: Approximately 1.5 hours

Why would I ask you to visit a large mound while on an architectural tour? Cahokia Mounds, a UNESCO World Heritage Site situated about nine miles from St. Louis, preserves the legacy of a pre-Columbian Native American city. Established around 700 AD and flourishing as a Mississippian culture center by 1250 AD, Cahokia housed thousands before its decline. Monks Mound, the largest earthen mound in North America, stands testament to Cahokia's monumental scale, once surrounded by palisade walls spanning nearly two miles in circumference. Despite there being little left for architectural exploration at the site today, the Cahokia mounds remain crucial to our understanding of heritage, history, and culture. They offer a profound appreciation for the architectural achievements of early North American civilizations, showcasing strategic construction and cultural significance that provide valuable insights into ancient societies and their relationship with the natural environment. This combined knowledge deepens our understanding of how architecture intertwined with cultural and historical narratives in shaping early civilizations, prompting reflection on its implications for our future.

Day 5 cont.: St. Louis, Missouri

• Departure: Collinsville, Illinois

• Destination: St. Louis, Missouri

• Travel Time: Approximately 45 minutes

• Overnight: St. Louis, Missouri

The Gateway Arch in St. Louis, a marvel of engineering and design soaring over the Mississippi River, symbolizes American resilience and determination, embodying the pioneering spirit celebrated by settlers of the West. Designed by architect Eero Saarinen and completed in 1965, its graceful stainless steel curves reflect the sky and shimmer in the sunlight. Ascending to the top via a unique tram system offers unparalleled views of the city skyline and the river below, emphasizing the arch's role as a gateway to the American frontier. The surrounding Gateway Arch National Park offers ample opportunities for leisurely strolls along the riverfront or picnics in the shadow of this monumental structure. The arch is not just a feat of engineering but also a tribute to the spirit of exploration and expansion that defined America's westward expansion in the 19th century.

Optional Visit

Laumeier Sculpture Park, an open-air museum featuring over 60 outdoor sculptures, invites exploration of art and nature's relationship through free public access.

Day 6-7: Columbus, Indiana

• Departure: St. Louis, Missouri

• Destination: Columbus, Indiana

• Travel Time: Approximately 4.5 hours

• End of itinerary: Return to Chicago, Illinois

Located south of Indianapolis, Columbus is renowned as "Unexpected Unforgettable." The city boasts over 80 modern buildings, sculptures, and projects. Exploring this architectural gem requires at least two days to appreciate its richness. If the following text appears as a list, it's simply because it's difficult for me to pick just one or two favorites. Nonetheless, the highlights include Eero Saarinen's iconic Miller House, Eliel Saarinen's groundbreaking First Christian Church, Paul A. Kennon's innovative AT&T Switching Center with its distinctive HVAC system design, and Edward Charles Bassett's geometrically striking Columbus City Hall add depth to the city's architectural tapestry. Further enriching the landscape are Isaac Hodgson's graceful Bartholomew County Courthouse and Kevin Roche's Cummins Corporate Office Building that integrates seamlessly with green spaces and a unique trellis. Dan Kiley's signature allée of trees enhances the meticulously landscaped Miller House and Garden, blending architecture and nature into a cohesive vision of modern design. See, I wasn't kidding about the wealth of architectural gems in this Midwest city.

Now, you may choose to spend the second night in Columbus and head back to Chicago the next morning, or return to Chicago at the end of the second day in Columbus. The choice is yours to make.

Visual Overview of Itinerary 

The following screenshot from Google Maps provides a visual representation of the itinerary's destinations, offering a concise overview of the planned route and its stops.

Closing Thoughts

As we conclude our exploration of the Midwest's architectural marvels, I encourage you to uncover the architectural treasures awaiting discovery near you or on your next journey. Reflecting on Balkrishna Doshi's wisdom to "visit the site often, give a patient ear to its murmurs," whether your interest lies in modern innovations or historical landmarks, each destination carries a narrative worth exploring. May these experiences spark your curiosity and inspire you to appreciate the beauty of architecture wherever your travels lead.